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If you are looking for fuel injector connectors, then you have come to the right place.Whether you’ve broken an old cracked heat damaged fuel injector connector, or whether you are installing new connectors for a new set of high performance injectors on a new engine.
Our fuel injector connector kits come with all the parts needed to either replace, rebuild, or repair your broken fuel injector connectors using your existing wiring harness. There is no need to cut your old broken connector off of your vehicle’s wiring harness. You can dismantle your existing broken fuel injector connector / plug using a terminal release tool (or a very small and thin screwdriver or a dental probe). You reuse your existing wires; first cut off the old metal terminals, and then you crimp the new metal terminals on the existing harness wire. Just snap the new metal terminals / pins into a brand new nylon fuel injector connector / plug body. No need for splicing, and no need to scrounge around junk yards looking for fuel injector connector pigtails.
Injector Repair LLC offers many different types of fuel injector connectors / plugs for almost all automotive, truck, and marine applications. You will need to visually identify your connector and compare it to the detailed pictured below in our online shipping cart.
Tips on selecting the proper type of fuel injector connector.
Fuel injector connectors are susceptible to deterioration due to aging, and wear and tear. A fuel injectors location on the engine exposes them to intense heat, vibration, and chemical fumes. Over time, these will cause the connectors’ nylon body to deteriorate and eventually break.
- A broken connector will not stay in place, and must be replaced in order for the vehicle to be reliable and safely driven.
- A broken connector will not seal the contacts properly, and will let moisture in, eventually causing corrosion on the metal terminals.
- Reusing a broken fuel injector connector is just asking for problems!!!!!
Clinton Outboard Fuel Connector
We also carry EV1 to EV6 connector conversion adapters, and wire terminal release tools.
Tips on selecting the proper type of fuel injector connector.
Lisle 57749 Wire Terminal Tool Kit
Set of 3 terminal tools for removing wires from terminals (plug / connectors) without damage. Terminal tools work on most conventional terminals as well as pack-con and weatherpack terminals found on GM vehicles. Blue terminal fits many ford applications.
$38.50
Jetronic / Minitimer EV1 Style Male to USCAR EV6 Female Adapter
• Also known as Bosch Style EV1 Male to EV6 Female Adapter.
• This adapter comes completely assembled and is ‘plug and play’ ready to use.
• Only $4.50 each.
Jetronic / Minitimer ( EV1 ) Style Female to USCAR ( EV6 ) Male Adapter
• Also known as Bosch Style EV1 Female to EV6 Male Adapter.
• This adapter comes completely assembled and is ‘plug and play’ ready to use.
• Only $4.50 each.
Jetronic / Minitimer ( EV1 ) Style Female Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- Also known as Bosch EV1 Style Female Fuel Injector Connector / Plug
- Available in three versions: Type A Side Release
Type B Top Release with Short Body
Type C Top Release with Long Body - Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
Jetronic / Minitimer ( EV1 ) Style Male Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- Also known as Bosch EV1 Style Male Fuel Injector Connector / Plug
- Available in three versions: Type D, E, and F
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
USCAR Style ( EV6 ) Female Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- Also known as Bosch EV6 Style Female Fuel Injector Connector / Plug
- Available in three versions: Type A White
Type B Red
Type C Yellow - Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets.
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
USCAR Style ( EV6 ) Male Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- Also known as Bosch EV6 Style Male Fuel Injector Connector / Plug
- Available in two versions: White and Red
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
GM “Mini“ Delphi / Multec 2 Style Female Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- This GM style fuel injector connector was used on many ( not all ) GM vehicles beginning around the year 2000
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets and blue latch lock
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
GM “Mini“ Delphi / Multec 2 Style Male Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- This GM style fuel injector connector was used on many ( not all ) GM vehicles beginning around the year 2000
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
Toyota Style Female Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- Available in two versions: Type A and Type B
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
Toyota Style Male Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- Available in two versions: Type A and Type B
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
Honda Style Female Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- Available in two versions: Female and Wider Slot Female
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
Honda Style Male Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- Available in two versions: Male and Wider Slot Male
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
Nippon / Denso Style Female Fuel Injector Connector Kit
Clinton J9 Fuel Connector
- Available in three versions: Top Slot Female Type A
Top Slot Female Type A2
Dual Slot Female Type C - Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
Nippon / Denso Style Female Type A Top Slot Fuel Injector Connector / Plug Kit
-Differs slightly from ‘A2’ style. The locking tab width is smaller in Type A
Nippon / Denso Style Female Type A2 Top Slot Fuel Injector Connector / Plug Kit
-Differs slightly from ‘A’ style. The locking tab width is smaller in Type A
Clinton J9 Outboard Motor Fuel Connector
Nippon / Denso Style Male Fuel Injector Connector Kit
- Available in two versions: Style 1 and Style 2
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
Nissan Style Female Fuel Injector Connector / Plug Kit
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
Nissan Style Male Fuel Injector Connector / Plug Kit
- Connector kit includes metal terminals and sealing gaskets
- Available option with 6” pigtail using 20 gauge heat / oil resistant wire
A general guide for disconnecting the most common setup of fuel lines from a fuel pump.
Transcript
Hi, everyone, and welcome to Delphi’s How-To Video Series. I’m Dave Hobbs, senior trainer here at Delphi Product & Service Solutions. In this video, we’re going to show you how to disconnect fuel line fittings. We always put safety first, so make sure that you are thorough and you’re careful. Don’t get in a hurry. Don’t forget to wear safety glasses and gloves. Have a fire extinguisher on hand, and work in a well-ventilated area away from anything that could have a flame or a spark.
Anytime you disconnect a fuel line that is a compression or press quick-release type fitting, you want to make sure that you depressurize the fuel system. So I pulled the fuse on this particular vehicle, ran the engine until it ran out of gas. Now we’re going to have just the drippage, the drainage, which I’ve got a transmission jack with a drain pan on top to catch anything that’s going to hit the floor, so it doesn’t hit the floor and make a mess. And I’ve got some rags tied around my wrist so I don’t have any gasoline go down my sleeves right up to my armpit.
Now, what I want to do is, and I’ve already done this … I’m going to spray some penetrant along this area right here to get into that little fitting. Sometimes they can get a little bit dry and a little bit hard to turn. Now what’s going to protect that fitting and kind of keep it on as a secondary safety is this little clip right here. So let’s take a screwdriver and pop that clip off.
Let’s go ahead and put our magic, quick release tool in. That’s going to go inside, and there’s a whole selection of these I have in my tool box that are going to depress the little latching tabs that are on the fuel line, so that’s going to go right in there. And as I kind of wiggle it, and you’ll feel it snap at some point, and that’s going to be your cue that you have depressed it. I may have to get around to the other side now and push with one hand and twist with the other. There we go, and I got it.
So that’s popped out, and you would do your work. Let’s say you’re under the hood. You have the same kind of fitting under the hood at the rail. This is a returnless system, so I have one line with that same kind of fitting under the hood, same type of tool, and you’d catch your gasoline. Then you’d do your work, replace your rail, your injectors back here. If you’re going to replace the fuel pump, you will check the O ring inside. So visually inspect. Let me get my pocket flashlight. A little more gas as we visually inspect. Here we go. Draining the whole fuel line, probably right up to the fuel inline fuel filter over here on the right side of the frame rail.
I look in there, and I see a good-looking O ring. It’s in place, and so now we do my work. Let’s say I changed out the pump, then you would just reverse the process. Pop that back in nice and gently so you don’t tear that O ring until you hear it click, and it won’t want to come back out if you have snapped it in properly. There we go. You heard that big click. That’s the stopping point, and then you put your secondary retainer clip on the way you found it. Would be this way, and the small end goes on the fuel line itself. There we go. Double check it. Now pressurize the vehicle back up, so put the fuse back in the fuse panel for fuel pump, turn the key on, let it prime, maybe start the engine, check it out from underneath here with a bright flashlight. No leaks … You’re good to go.
Thanks for watching, and be sure to check out more of Delphi’s How-To Video Series so that you can have more tips on saving money and saving time in your shop every day.
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